Winter Visits to Zoos: A Depressing Experience

Visiting a zoo in winter is a depressing experience with a sense of desolation for both the animals and the visitors and adds to the animal’s monotony reducing their attention and interaction.

Walking through a zoo in winter is a depressing experience with a sense of desolation for both the animals and the visitors, something I discovered this December when suffering from the seasonal blues and feeling a desperate need to commune with wild animals I decided to venture into my local zoo for the first time. I am not a fan of zoos and in fact this was my first venture into one for over forty years but I was also  interested to discover if my poor opinion of them might have assuaged over the years.

Entrance to a zoo with directional signs pointing towards various animal exhibits, surrounded by trees and winter scenery.
A sunny December morning with few visitors – an atmosphere of emptiness and isolation. John Brookland

An atmosphere of emptiness

It immediately struck me as I wandered with a handful of other visitors, that the usually vibrant environment becomes subdued and silent during the winter months. An atmosphere of emptiness and isolation pervades, heightened by the shuttered cafes and ice cream stalls, which remain closed for the season. Wooden huts with empty outdoor enclosures only add to the sense of bleakness; empty because the cold discourages the animals from venturing out. They huddle inside under heat lamps in an effort to retain what little warmth they can find. Those few that did venture outside were desperately seeking out the infrequent patches of weak sunlight.

Two meerkats standing against a wall in their enclosure, basking in sunlight, surrounded by sparse vegetation.
Two lonely meerkats warm in the weak sunshine. John Brookland

It was soon obvious that reduced visitor numbers only adds to the animal’s monotony and contributes to them exhibiting signs of reduced attention and interaction, staring out with expressions of boredom, longing for stimulation and activity.  

As I wander I find a solitary leopard lazing quietly on a log surveying its enclosure and its eyes follow me with a haunted look. A lone female cheetah paces her grassy compound in a trance-like state, endlessly circling as if searching for something unattainable. Nearby, a magnificent male Bengal tiger sits perched atop a specially built wooden tower, wistfully gazing at the distant countryside before lethargically climbing back down and sauntering back inside.

A trio of normally gregarious meerkats lean up against the wall of their pen in a sun spot looking dejected and without life. Three howler monkeys sit on top of each other for warmth and comfort with sad faces. They peer through the glass of their enclosure out of utter boredom and three baboons sit on a gantry to their outside pen, their watchful eyes and subdued behaviour highlighting the unfamiliar stillness that has settled over the zoo.

A black lemur sitting quietly on a ledge inside its enclosure, gazing wistfully outside through the glass.
A black lemur sitting quietly on a ledge inside its enclosure, gazing wistfully outside through the glass.

And what of the staff who also seemed to pervade the same emotions and behaviour, unwilling to catch your eye or interact, as they hose down a yard or walk past;  perhaps also missing the bustle of throngs of visitors. All these behavioural changes underscore the impact of winter conditions on zoo inhabitants and operations.

Two marmosets beneath a heating lamp to obtain warmth. Photo: John Brookland

Visiting a zoo in winter is a depressing experience with a sense of desolation for both the animals and the visitors and it is obvious that reduced visitor numbers only add to the animal’s monotony and contributes to them exhibiting signs of reduced attention and interaction, staring out with expressions of boredom, longing for stimulation and activity.  

Unfortunately I left the zoo with a realisation that my visit had done nothing to change my opinion of zoos having witnessed animals that bear no resemblance to their wild cousins who I have had the pleasure to observe on my travels.

A visit to MandaLao Elephant Conservation in Laos.

If you should be visiting Laos and staying in the ever-popular Luang Prabang area you might be tempted to visit one of the much touted nearby elephant camps. Booking offices for the camps line the main street of the town and you are spoilt for choice. Hopefully you will be looking for an ethically operated one which does not condone elephant riding. The MandaLao Elephant Conservation is certainly one of those. 

We recently had the pleasure of spending a day with their elephants and staff and came away with extremely positive feelings that Asian elephants can be saved and allowed to have, as they put it, “dignified and comfortable lives in harmony with nature.” We came away impressed with their philosophy and professionalism.

But it is not the same at all the elephant “rescues” in the area and throughout Laos. Elephant riding is not banned and it is common to see elephant camps advertising tours for riding.  There was in fact a new elephant riding camp under construction at the time of our visit.

Elephant riding scars

One of the rescued Mandalao elephants with scars caused by the howdah seat used for tourist riding.

To ride or not to ride elephants

The ethics and welfare aspects of riding them is constantly under review and debate with some experts going so far as believing it is good for them. This does rather stretch the credibility though. All purport to rescue ill-treated animals from logging and tourists attractions with low welfare, but many who obtain them are tourist attractions themselves and welfare standards can vary.

MandaLao Elephant Conservation and the nearby Elephant Conservation centre do seem to have got it right. Mandalao are focused on allowing the animals to live as natural a life as possible, roaming, foraging and forming bonds to create a herd that can be released.

Visiting MandaLao Elephant Conservation

Trekking with the elephants. You are provided with water canteens and legging boots.

It is a short road trip to the MandaLao headquarters, a new state of the art complex perched above the river with great vistas. After a welcoming drink we sat and had a lecture from the genial and visionary elephant expert Mr Prasop Tipprasert who is their chief consultant and often referred to as the elephant whisperer. It was extremely educational, but perhaps too technical for the average tourist who just wants to see the elephants as soon as possible.

Mandalao Elephants foraging in forest

Foraging for themselves under the watchful eye of the mahouts. It is wonderful enjoying the serenity of their company.

Mr Tipprasert hails from the Thailand Elephant Conservation centre where over the last three decades  he has been the originator and pioneer of the Positive Reinforcement Training of elephants. Basically, this means training with rewards such as a treat or praise when behaving well. He also successfully introduced the concept and establishment of having forest buffer zones around  elephant sanctuaries so as not to upset adjacent farmers and residents and made it possible to release some elephants back into the wild.

The centre operates a morning and afternoon group of up to eight people and an all-day group restricted to four, which although expensive is by far the best experience. We took part in the all day and were the only ones and were taken across the river in a canoe to meet the two elephants we were to spend our day with. We spent a leisurely morning trekking with them and their mahouts and an extremely informative and helpful guide named Tanh who had a great sense of humour.

A new arrival suffering awful repetitive behavior and at the beginning of her rehabilitation. Filmed by Debbie Jacob.

Fascinating to watch their natural habits

We watched as they foraged and used their fascinating natural skills and habits such as breaking off branches stripping the leaves while holding them with their massive feet. It was all done at their pace and the mahouts seemed devoted to them. We then had lunch at a jungle camp, a swim in a small waterfall and a final trek back. It was wonderful to see the elephants just being elephants.

So, if you do find yourselves in Luang Prabang I can recommend MandaLao.  It is professionally run with no hint of touristy tactics and not used by drop in tours. Every visitor provides financial help for the care of the animals and in expanding their operation to give even more retired elephants the peaceful life they deserve amongst friends, both human and of their own kind.

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