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A visit to MandaLao Elephant Conservation in Laos.

If you should be visiting Laos and staying in the ever-popular Luang Prabang area you might be tempted to visit one of the much touted nearby elephant camps. Booking offices for the camps line the main street of the town and you are spoilt for choice. Hopefully you will be looking for an ethically operated one which does not condone elephant riding. The MandaLao Elephant Conservation is certainly one of those. 

We recently had the pleasure of spending a day with their elephants and staff and came away with extremely positive feelings that Asian elephants can be saved and allowed to have, as they put it, “dignified and comfortable lives in harmony with nature.” We came away impressed with their philosophy and professionalism.

But it is not the same at all the elephant “rescues” in the area and throughout Laos. Elephant riding is not banned and it is common to see elephant camps advertising tours for riding.  There was in fact a new elephant riding camp under construction at the time of our visit.

Elephant riding scars

One of the rescued Mandalao elephants with scars caused by the howdah seat used for tourist riding.

To ride or not to ride elephants

The ethics and welfare aspects of riding them is constantly under review and debate with some experts going so far as believing it is good for them. This does rather stretch the credibility though. All purport to rescue ill-treated animals from logging and tourists attractions with low welfare, but many who obtain them are tourist attractions themselves and welfare standards can vary.

MandaLao Elephant Conservation and the nearby Elephant Conservation centre do seem to have got it right. Mandalao are focused on allowing the animals to live as natural a life as possible, roaming, foraging and forming bonds to create a herd that can be released.

Visiting MandaLao Elephant Conservation

Trekking with the elephants. You are provided with water canteens and legging boots.

It is a short road trip to the MandaLao headquarters, a new state of the art complex perched above the river with great vistas. After a welcoming drink we sat and had a lecture from the genial and visionary elephant expert Mr Prasop Tipprasert who is their chief consultant and often referred to as the elephant whisperer. It was extremely educational, but perhaps too technical for the average tourist who just wants to see the elephants as soon as possible.

Mandalao Elephants foraging in forest

Foraging for themselves under the watchful eye of the mahouts. It is wonderful enjoying the serenity of their company.

Mr Tipprasert hails from the Thailand Elephant Conservation centre where over the last three decades  he has been the originator and pioneer of the Positive Reinforcement Training of elephants. Basically, this means training with rewards such as a treat or praise when behaving well. He also successfully introduced the concept and establishment of having forest buffer zones around  elephant sanctuaries so as not to upset adjacent farmers and residents and made it possible to release some elephants back into the wild.

The centre operates a morning and afternoon group of up to eight people and an all-day group restricted to four, which although expensive is by far the best experience. We took part in the all day and were the only ones and were taken across the river in a canoe to meet the two elephants we were to spend our day with. We spent a leisurely morning trekking with them and their mahouts and an extremely informative and helpful guide named Tanh who had a great sense of humour.

A new arrival suffering awful repetitive behavior and at the beginning of her rehabilitation. Filmed by Debbie Jacob.

Fascinating to watch their natural habits

We watched as they foraged and used their fascinating natural skills and habits such as breaking off branches stripping the leaves while holding them with their massive feet. It was all done at their pace and the mahouts seemed devoted to them. We then had lunch at a jungle camp, a swim in a small waterfall and a final trek back. It was wonderful to see the elephants just being elephants.

So, if you do find yourselves in Luang Prabang I can recommend MandaLao.  It is professionally run with no hint of touristy tactics and not used by drop in tours. Every visitor provides financial help for the care of the animals and in expanding their operation to give even more retired elephants the peaceful life they deserve amongst friends, both human and of their own kind.

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Grand National 2023. What we learned from it.

Another year, another Grand National, the usual outrage, drama and spectacle, but this year the added excitement of an Animal Rising invasion, but what did it achieve?

Another year, another Grand National, more drama and spectacle, but this year the added excitement of an Animal Rising invasion and protest, probably the first of many to come. It is a surprise it hasn’t happened before, but what did it achieve and what did we learn from the reaction to it?

We learned that the protestors perhaps need to increase their security to make sure their plans do not leak out if they are to be successful. There is a lot to be said for the good old surprise attack. But in retrospect the course invasion by Animal Rising was possibly counterproductive as it deflected media and public attention away from the welfare aspects and gave many people the opportunity to blame them for everything that went wrong during the event.

We discovered that the police are more zealous at removing protestors from a race meeting than they are in removing them from blocking our motorways causing ten of thousands of motorists misery and annoyance and damaging our economy. We now know where our priorities lie.

Grand National 2023

Futile Investigations.

It proved that the numerous futile investigations by the Horse Racing Authority, RSPCA, League Against Cruel Sports and others over the last decade and their various so called improvements have had no effect in reducing the suffering of horses. Most commentators are transfixed on the number of deaths caused but it is the number that do not finish and the punishment they suffer which is the crux of the problem.

The 2023 race resulted in 17 finishers and 22 casualties including two deaths, two seriously injured taken away by horse ambulance; one of them Cape Gentleman had surgery on a severed tendon and has had to be retired and the other Recite a Prayer had a fractured eye socket. Ten others pulled up unable to survive the strain and the others fell and unseated their riders. On average 60% of the field do not finish. All are caused trauma.

We learned that their is no middle ground for negotiation with both sides beliefs so far apart and entrenched. The protestors were variously described as hypocritical, ignorant, publicity seekers and doing it for their own gratification and not the welfare of the horses. All those with an interest in the sport accuse everyone else of not understanding while they have no interest in understanding the protesters viewpoint. Or as one petulant owner commented “It’s our sport and we love it, so there.”

“It was all caused by these so called animal lovers who are actually ignorant and have absolutely no idea about the welfare of horses.”

Sandy Thompson, Trainer to BBC Sport.

Protesters blamed for everything at Grand National.

Everyone connected with the race were quick to blame the protestors for everything bad that occurred. They were generally blamed for “compromising the horses welfare” by making them wait longer in the sun. Sandy Thompson trainer of Hill Sixteen who died at the first fence with a broken neck was quoted as saying the number of horses falling in the race “points to the fact they were unsettled by the delay.” As about 60 per cent of horses in every Grand National fall or never finish this must mean they are always unsettled which is not a good state surely.

He specifically blamed the protest for the death stating the twelve minute delay caused the horse to hypo-ventilate in the parade ring. Of course, even if this was so, he could have withdrawn it if he was worried, but didn’t.

A lady had her leg crushed by two unseated terrified horses which careered into her blamed it on the protestors who by their presence had stopped her from being able to leave. A rather tenuous link perhaps.

Riderless race horse

extinction of the most majestic domesticated species on earth

Many inane comments and statements made by those involved in the sport many of who were interviewed during the twelve minute delay have probably incensed the campaigners even more. One suggested: “Let’s give 20 horses to the protestors and see what they do with them, take them home and put them in their gardens?” and another: “Horses have a purpose in life, just like us all. Unfortunately, when people go to work, sometimes bad things happen.

The rather overwrought Racing Post believed the “cabal of extremists” were hell bent on the “extinction of the most majestic domesticated species on earth,” and believed most people accepted the odd fatality in the cause of enjoying “the high-octane sporting event.”

Jockey’s Bob Champion and Peter Scudamore suggested the protesters would be appeased if they visited racing stables to see how well looked after the horses were, completely missing the point that the protests are what happens after they leave the safety of their stable. Most agreed they were attention and publicity seekers who knew nothing about horses and should keep their noses out of it.

No serious will to improve welfare.

Everyone knows what is required to improve the race, but are not willing to drastically reduce the number competing by a half, reduce the number and size of fences and the actual length of the race. Only 23 horses compete in the Scottish Grand National. But of course if this was done it would no longer be a pageant or spectacle just another horse race and no one wants that do they?

What the protest certainly achieved is a lot of vitriolic debate and childish name calling. And for all the wrong reasons many people will be looking forward to the next instalment in 2024.

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